I know what you’re thinking: that sounds amazing.

Tonight I came home to a fridge full of perishable goodies I wanted to use up: broccoli I picked up from the co-op Monday, Niman Ranch ham, ramps (got ’em!), brown rice, and remember that over-wintered spinach from breakfast the other day? What to do…

This is one of those times you hope to get away with a “kitchen sink” meal – a little of this, a little of that, just enough inventiveness that it might work. I think it did. Bonus: this is practically a one-pot meal. This is not meant to be a recipe to follow precisely, but rather an approach to a quick, tasty meal using what you already have on hand. You can substitute any number of the ingredients below for what’s in your fridge.

I toasted 1 tbsp of sesame seeds in a small skillet over medium heat, then removed from heat and set aside. In a large skillet I warmed 1-2 tbsp olive oil then added the white stems of thoroughly washed ramps, sautéing for about five minutes. To this I added small florets of broccoli and cooked, uncovered, adding small amounts of water to steam and cook the broccoli.

At this point you could add a handful of marinated tofu, cut into small cubes (mine was marinated in sesame oil, red pepper flakes, lime juice, garlic, and soy sauce). I know tofu turns some people off so don’t bother with it if you don’t like it. Once nicely browned I added 1 tbsp fresh lime juice and 1 tsp lime zest to the mixture, and additional red pepper flakes, salt, and pepper, to taste.

Since I had this gorgeous Niman Ranch ham on hand I cut a piece of it into small cubes and added it to the pan, just to reheat. Then in went the cooked brown rice, turning up the heat to get a nice crust on the rice, leaving the pan uncovered, followed by a large handful of spinach, chopped, and the ramp leaves, cut crosswise in thirds, just to wilt, about 1-2 minutes.

At the last minute I cracked an egg over the dish, turned off the heat, and mixed all together, using the egg as a sauce. Top with the toasted sesame seeds and serve.

For kicks I’m sharing some photos from around Union Square today: the Big Gay Ice Cream Truck! I would’ve stopped for a cone but the line was down the block. Has anyone tried it? And the Andy Warhol statue by Rob Pruitt, which I was delighted to discover had been appropriately adorned with…Campbell’s soup cans. Wish I’d thought of that.


That is the title of a Sunday New York Times Magazine piece by Frank Bruni on the wizards behind Torrisi Italian Specialities, a small but game-changing restaurant on Mulberry Street in Manhattan.

On Saturday I was just singing the praises of this small Italian bistro to a friend visiting from out of town. “You. Must. Eat. There.” I chanted.

Back in 2009 I was editing a book for Phaidon called Coco: 10 World-Leading Masters Choose 100 Contemporary Chefs. Mario Batali, one of the book’s curators, selected the young Mario Carbone as one of his top-ten emerging chefs. Carbone, a Queens boy, had worked for Batali at Babbo and Del Posto, but in Coco we were discussing his then-new restaurant Aeronuova at the Jet Blue Terminal at JFK airport. I don’t think that gig lasted very long.

In the summer of 2009 Carbone opened this tiny storefront with his partner Rich Torrisi and it soon went from a splash to explosion onto the New York restaurant scene.

Bruni comments that the two of them don’t even have a publicist; but the restaurant, like the food, seems to speak for itself. I look forward to trying the Italian-wedding-soup dumpling. You. Must. Eat. There. Or don’t! Better chance that I’ll get a table.

Full disclosure: I went to the greenmarket in Union Square on my lunch break yesterday in search of more ramps. The season is fleeting and my appetite persistent. By 2 pm, however, they were gone. I’m glad others will get to enjoy them.

I stumbled upon some over-wintered spinach that looked bright and green and threw it into my sack for $4. I thought about the green garlic but, looking a little wilted, it will have to wait for another time. Added some brown eggs and multi-grain bread and called it a day.

I like the sound of over-wintered spinach, or broccoli rabe. Because it sums up how I feel: over winter, indeed.

When I woke up this morning I wanted something savory and hearty, not my usual yogurt-fruit-cereal breakfast. I heated a little olive oil in a skillet and threw in the spinach, to wilt, for about one minute, adding salt and promptly removing the spinach from the skillet. Meanwhile I toasted slices of the Bread Alone loaf, slathering on avocado*, kosher salt and pepper. In the same skillet I had warmed the spinach I added an egg, covered the pan with a lid, and let the egg cook for about 2 or 3 minutes, then turned off the heat. On top of the avocado toasts I added the wilted spinach and egg and got to work.

*The avocado came from the Park Slope food co-op. I am proud to announce I have officially rejoined! Although this FTOP thing looks tricky – I could barely find one, let alone two, shifts during May so I’m told I will be on “alert” until I can complete my first shift in June. I came home with overflowing bags of green lentils, rice shakes, dried apricots and mango, bananas, broccoli, and spices. It’s good to be back.