Outside Cafe Grumpy, 22 May 2011

A glance at some great reads from the past week:

Strange Fruit: The rise and fall of açai, by John Colapinto in this week’s New Yorker. Colapinto chronicles the origins behind the marketing of this Brazilian “super food.”

Profile of a Tastemaker: Rozanne Gold, by Nancy Matsumoto in the latest issue of Edible Manhattan, on one of New York City’s original locavores.

Artichoke Basics, a video on the New York Times website of Melissa Clark preparing artichokes. So useful!

(Not) Ducking a Legacy, by Francis Lam for Gilt Taste on whether, in the age of seasonality, a restaurant can still have signature dishes.

Filling the New York-style Pizza Vacuum by Jonathan Gold of the LA Weekly, on where to get a good slice in LA.

Snack Attack 2011 by Alice Levitt and Corin Hirsch for Vermont’s Seven Days newspaper, chronicles the state’s best summer roadside eats.

When it came time to make dinner with all the goodies I brought home from the greenmarket I stuck to the original plan.

Around 3 pm, before going out for a run, I remembered to soak the Cannellinis in about 3 inches of water, covered the pot with a lid, and let them be for the next 2-3 hours.

Today was the inaugural weekend of Smorgasburg, the Brooklyn Flea food extravaganza held at Kent Ave. and N. 6th St. in Williamsburg. The New York Times covered it in Wednesday’s dining section so I was prepared for a robust turnout. I decided to swing by there on my run just to check out the scene. As I turned the corner onto N. 6th I began to see the vast sea of hungry foodies, out to try a Salvadorian papusa, duck egg mayonnaise, or an Arnold Palmer slushie. The Mayo stand had displayed a small hand-written sign that read, “Happy Rapture! Eat All the Mayo You Want!” There were no signs of rapture, but plenty of stands to get your locavore on.

I forgot my money at home so it was on with the run, then back home to tend to the meal.

I discarded the bean’s soaking liquid, then refilled the pot (beans in) with fresh water, adding two carrots cut in half, an onion, also cut in half, about a tbsp of black peppercorns, mustard seeds, cumin seeds, and kosher salt. I brought the water to a boil then cocked the lid partway and let it simmer for 45 minutes. While the beans softened to the tunes of a robust gurgle, giving off steam and the aromas of simmering spices, I grated about 1/2 cup of Parmesan, finely chopped a handful of oregano, and diced about 1 cup of spring garlic, 3 cloves of garlic-garlic, and 1 shallot.

I cleaned and dried the skate fillet, added salt, pepper, and ichimi, then dredged the fillet in flour, and set aside.

When the beans were soft I turned off the heat. In a large skillet I heated 2-3 tbsp of olive oil and added the garlics and shallot. After sautéeing for about 3 or 4 minutes I gradually added the cooked beans, with a slotted spoon, to the skillet, including somewhere around 1 cup of the cooking liquid. After the liquid in the skillet had come to a boil, I turned down the heat, added the Parmesan, oregano, some more salt and pepper, and a handful of chopped spinach. Ignore for 5 minutes.

At this point, in a smaller cast iron skillet, I heated 3 tbsp of walnut oil (good for cooking at high heat), then added the skate, which just fit in the pan. I fried on each side for 3-4 minutes, until it had a nice crispy crust from the flour on each side.

I had the remaining cooking liquid from the beans reheating on a nearby burner (with all the herbs and spices at the bottom, but carrots and onion discarded), about 2 inches of liquid, then threw in the asparagus to steam, 4-5 minutes, until tender.

Everything was ready at roughly the same time. I even managed to put out a little cheese board with the Bakeri baguette and a Gruyere from Fairway that needed to be eaten sooner rather than later. It turned out to be a lovely Saturday night supper.

Thank god it’s Saturday. And a sunny one at that. I woke up this morning to warm sun for the first time in a week. Took a stroll up to the greenmarket at McCarren Park around 10 am to find it already abuzz with strollers, Williamsburg hosts shopping for tonight’s dinner party, Polish babcias rifling through bins of potatoes, and lots of folks like myself with dirty old WNYC tote bags overflowing with baguettes and spring garlic. What better way to kick off a weekend in spring?

First was a stop at Bakeri on Wythe Ave. and N. 8th Street for a little pastry to get us going – mini lemon bar ($1) for me and mini chocolate croissants  ($1.50) for Yuji. No coffee for me because they won’t serve decaf espresso. (I respect that – decaf is kind of b.s. Even though it’s all I drink I find the idea of it annoying.) I also picked up one of their long baguettes for later ($2.50) which are just sour enough, crusty on the inside, and really chewy on the inside.

Once at the market, the first stop is usually Red Jacket Orchards for a quart of Strawberry Apple Juice (currently my favorite) ($3), and two apples of a variety whose name I forget ($1.15). Then on to Boddhitree Farm for my first asparagus of the season ($5 for a lot), red leaf lettuce ($2), and a small bunch of oregano ($2). Over at Cayuga Pure Organics (I’m so glad they have a stall at this market location), where they’ve started selling their legumes in bulk bins, so you can get whatever amount you like, I bought a 1/2 pound of the Cannellini ($3). Before leaving I took part in their dry-erase poll, checking “Yes” in response to the question, “Do you like our new self-serve bulk bins?”

At this point tonight’s menu was coming together in my mind: Cannellini sautéed in olive oil with oregano and spring garlic; asparagus (preparation tbd); and now I’d just need some fish. Over to the Pura Vida stand. Yuji wanted the small smelt for frying but the person in front of us bought the whole lot and left us with none. We opted for the skate at $9/lb. At the large produce stand (I can’t remember which farm this is, sorry!) I picked up a big bunch of spring garlic for $2.

Before leaving we swung around to Garden of Eve and (I think) Dutchmill Farm, where we purchased small potted herbs for planting: cilantro, basil, rosemary, chives, and a fennel plant. We have a 2′ x 4′ plot in our yard for gardening and it was now or never. We got home, dug up our little garden spade from last year and got dirty.

Stay tuned for how tonight’s meal shapes up.