I try to get down here to Raleigh, North Carolina once a year to visit my mom, stepfather, and brother, as well as my sister in Durham. While typically that happens in October, this year I decided to come during the holidays. Today was a brisk but sunny December day. The photo above shows the tall pines near my mother’s house.

I arrived yesterday on a flight from LaGuardia and a few hours later was dining at Magnolia Grill on Ninth Street in Durham. Dream come true. I’ve long wanted to try Magnolia, ever since Gourmet magazine listed it #11 in its top fifty restaurants in America. Opened in 1986, it was one of the first market-driven restaurants in the country, focusing on seasonal, fresh ingredients with a slight Southern twist.

As luck would have it my sister started working there this fall so it was on the top of my to-do list for this weekend. We made an early reservation, arriving in the cold, pouring rain last night and tucking into some truly satisfying, warm comfort food. My sister’s fiance was with us, so among the three of us we were able to sample at least six dishes.

I had the farmer’s market salad: roasted butternut squash, peppers, Blue Lake beans, fennel, black kale, candycane red onions, arugula, hazelnuts, and ricotta salata. Blu had the red wine risotto with grilled chicken confit, roasted radicchio, pecorino romano, arugula, and sundried cranberry chutney in a walnut vinaigrette. We were joking that his dish would have definitely made a suitable entree rather than a first course. Emily, debating between the sorghum-glazed berkshire pork belly and the citrus-cured steelhead trout with cauliflower tabbouleh, went with the latter.

Our appetizers were so good we sat wide-eyed, mouths full, not saying anything, just poking our forks at each other’s plates and shaking our heads.

For the main course, I had the grilled New Bedford sea scallops in apple cider jus on butter-apple coulis with wild rice “risotto” with frisee, granny smith apples and roasted walnuts. I’m a big fan of wild rice and anything assembling risotto, not to mention the scallops of course, so this was the perfect dish for me. Blu had the grilled angus NY strip in balsamic jus with roasted fingerling potatoes and blue cheese. And Emily had what might have been all of our favorite dish of the night: grilled Eden Farm berkshire pork rib chop on creamed cabbage with apples, sage and bacon, and red wine lentils de puy. Right?

To top it all off we shared three desserts. We only ordered two but the kitchen sent one out on the house. Drum roll please… My favorite was the maple walnut date tart with maple bacon ice cream, everything, including the ice cream, made in house by Karen Barker, co-owner and head pastry chef. The ice cream was smoky and the tart sticky and gooey and with just a hint of the bacon’s richness. The eggnog creme brulee with pecan biscotti was enough to put me over the edge after an already full meal, but was still quite good. And the dessert on the house was gingerbread babycake with pumpkin caramel swirl ice cream. Divine inspiration.

To bed, to bed, and then morning and baking. As is Christmas tradition in my mom’s house, we made chocolate chip cookies this morning. We multiplied the recipe by three and made something like 150 cookies.

Classic Chocolate Chip Cookies
(makes 4 dozen)

2 1/4 c flour
1 tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp salt
1 c butter or margarine, room temperature
3/4 c sugar
3/4 brown sugar, packed
2 large eggs
2 tsp vanilla
11 1/2 oz semi-sweet chocolate chips

1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. Stir flour with the baking soda and salt and set aside.

2. In a large mixing bowl, beat butter with sugar and brown sugar on low spead until creamy and lightened in color. Add the eggs one at a time and continue to beat on low speed. Add the vanilla and mix until combined. Gradually add the dry mixture into the creamed mixture, then stir in the chocolate chips.

3. Drop a tablespoon of batter onto ungreased cookie sheets and bake for 9 to 11 minutes, until golden brown.

What do you do if you live in New York City and have out-of-town guests for the weekend? You eat!

So many options, so little time. My top ten varies all the time—and depends of course on the visitor, the season, the budget, the food allergy—but will likely include at least a few of the following:

Russ & Daughters (or Katz’s)
Diner (or Dressler)
Sun-in-Bloom (esp. if a friend is vegan or gluten free)
ABC Kitchen
Blue Ribbon (Sushi or Bakery)
Prune
Di Fara Pizza (or Roberta’s)
Momofuku (pick your fave – Noodle Bar, Ko, Milk Bar, et al.)
Tarallucci e Vino
Al di Là

Other pit-stops might include Gimme Coffee, the Union Square Greenmarket, the Park Slope Food Co-op, or Babycakes Bakery.

This weekend was a flurry of out-of-towners, hailing from Boston, Zurich, Madison, Phoenicia, and Vermont. The weekend began with a late breakfast on Friday at Sun in Bloom in Park Slope. Hey, it’s good to start the weekend off healthy; it was all downhill from there.

You’re looking at gluten-free pancakes and a raw kale wrap with “live” sesame dressing. Both were delicious and way better than either may sound to you.

Friday night I finally got to try Samurai Mama in Williamsburg, a new udon joint brought to you by the owners of Bozu, which is just down the street from Mama on Grand. I had the vegetarian udon with wild edible Japanese plants. It was simple, not too salty, and the udon had an al dente chewiness that I liked. We also had flying fish jerky that was salty and chewy and basically perfect tapas food.

Saturday was a movie and Katz’s. Hugo in 3D to be exact and a post-cinema pastrami on rye. (Not Parisian bistro fare as the movie may have otherwise inspired.) Katz’s, for those of you unfortunate not to know, is one of New York City’s longest-standing Jewish delis, located on the Lower East Side since 1888. I hadn’t had one of their towering sandwiches in ages and I have to say, it was better than Mile End’s, where, you may remember, I bought pastrami on rye for my grandmother’s birthday earlier this year. Well this was worth every penny of the $15 sandwich. Throw in some sour pickles, matzo ball soup, and you’re in heaven. Or I’m in heaven.


After Katz’s I got on the F at 2nd Avenue to find this old New York City subway car sitting in the station. Apparently it’s a refurbished train—from the 1930s I believe—and it will be running on the M line next weekend for the holidays.

Sunday was a whole new day for eating and I had brunch with a bunch of old Cornell friends at Moutarde in Park Slope, across the street from my first apartment in Brooklyn. Later in the afternoon I went to a “gemuetlicher Advent” party at the home of a German couple, friends of mine, also in Park Slope. We ate delicious Stollen—the Christmas cake of Germany—and moon-shaped buttery cookies that to me tasted like Italian wedding cookies but perhaps they’re also German wedding cookies. Or German Advent cookies! For more on Stollen check out my friend Valerie’s post here. I’d love to try this recipe.

Dinner Sunday night was Japanese comfort food at Supercore in Williamsburg, an old favorite. Here’s some dried squid (I call it squid jerky), served with Japanese mayo.

And finally, feasting with the out-of-towners wrapped up this afternoon with my dad and stepmom who took me to lunch at ABC Kitchen. We all shared the roasted kabocha squash with ricotta and apple cider vinegar on toast; beets with homemade yogurt; pizza with mushrooms and a runny egg on top; and veal meatballs with bowtie pasta.

Not bad eh?

When I saw Sam Sifton’s gooey wild-mushroom lasagna in last weekend’s Times magazine I 1) held the magazine up to my nose and tried to inhale the aromas and 2) logged onto Fresh Direct’s website and ordered all the ingredients in the recipe. And thus began this weekend’s cooking adventure.

I’m into mushrooms. I have a friend who puts them in the category of “things that are slimy like sushi and therefore gross,” but I couldn’t disagree more. They are a vegetarian’s best friend, a meat-lover’s confidant, an umami-laden, savory, rich, earthy delight that adds depth and complexity to any dish.

This was not a thirty-minute meal. I started cooking last night at 6:30 and didn’t get the dish on the table until 10 pm. And I worked relatively quickly, or so I thought, but did not have a sous chef to help me cut all the shallots or grate the cheese or assemble the herb oil. But it was so worth it.

Let’s start with the herb oil. As Sifton writes, Monica Byrne and her partner Leisah Swenson run a tiny restaurant in Red Hook, Brooklyn, called Home/Made, and this herb oil infuses many of their dishes. It’s essentially good olive oil marinated with sage, rosemary, thyme, salt, and garlic. It’s an oily pesto that you use to roast the radicchio and cook the shallots and even make the bechamel in this recipe. I made extra so plan to use it to marinate sandwiches for lunch this week or even use as a pistou in soups.

I used three different kind of mushrooms for this lasagna: cremini, shiitake, and oyster; and four different kinds of cheese: Gruyère, Fontina, Parmesan, and smoked mozzarella. This is not a cheap dish to make, but it does yield about ten servings so in actuality it’s not too bad. Plus the results taste like something you’d pay good money for at a restaurant, with layers and layers of taste. It’s the perfect cold-weather dish to savor warm, rich flavors, and if you’re into wine, would go well with a dry, crisp white to cut the richness of the cheese.

I didn’t, however, use the optional truffle oil. Personally I don’t use the stuff. I find the smell slightly nauseating and besides, it’s not made with real truffles so what’s the point? But the herb oil should not be optional—it’s worth the extra effort.

If you’re hosting a dinner party this would be a great dish to make to serve lots of folks, including vegetarians, and could even be made in advance and just popped in the oven an hour before serving. I only wished I’d had a nice crunchy green salad to serve on the side, but made do with some crisp sliced carrots and sour green beans I had pickled over the summer. I would even try serving this to my anti-mushroom friend in the hopes that she could make nice with the fungus once and for all.

Gooey Wild-Mushroom Lasagna
Sam Sifton, adapted from Monica Byrne, Home/Made, Brooklyn

1/2 c extra-virgin olive oil or herb oil
6 large shallots, peeled and minced
1 1/2 pounds mushrooms, wild or best available (oyster, shiitake, cremini), trimmed and sliced
1 c dry white wine
1 softball-sized head of radicchio, halved, cored, and cut into small pieces
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 tbsp unsalted better, or herb oil
3 large cloves garlic, peeled and minced
4 tbsp flour
3 c whole milk
1/2 tsp grated nutmeg
1 c Gruyère cheese, grated
1 c Fontina cheese, grated
2 tbsp best-quality truffle oil (optional)
2 9-oz boxes no-boil lasagna sheets
1 baseball-size ball of smoked mozzarella, sliced
1 c fresh Parmesan, grated

1. Preheat oven to 350 F. Place a large sauté pan over medium-high heat and add 1/4 c of the herb oil. When it’s hot, add half of the shallots and cook until translucent. Add the mushrooms, toss to coat, and cook for approx. 12 to 15 minutes, until they start to turn color but remain plump. Add the white wine to deglaze pan and allow to cook down into a syrup, approx. 5 to 7 minutes. Put the mushrooms into a large bowl and reserve.

2. In another bowl, toss the radicchio with 1/4 c herb oil and season with salt and pepper. Spread the strips onto a baking sheet and place in the oven approx. 15 minutes, until the strips are lightly browned. Combine with the mushrooms and reserve.

3. Make the béchamel. Place a saucepan over medium heat and melt the butter. When it foams add the rest of the shallots and cook until they’re translucent. Add the garlic, stir to combine, and cook until the garlic has started to soften. Stir in the flour and cook gently until the mixture turns light brown and gives off a nutty scent, approximately 10 minutes. Add the milk to the mixture, whisking, until the sauce is thick and creamy. Add the nutmeg and 1/2 c of the Gruyère and 1/4 c Fontina, and stir to combine. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

4. Reserve a cup of béchamel and pour the rest over the mushroom-radicchio mixture and stir to combine. Add the truffle oil, if using.

5. Assemble lasagna. Spread all of the plain béchamel across the bottom of a 9- by 13-inch baking dish. Place a layer of lasagna sheets across the sauce, and do not overlap the sheets. Spread a generous layer of mushroom mixture on top of the pasta, and follow with some grated Fontina and Gruyère. Put another layer of pasta above the cheese, and top with smoked mozzarella. Repeat until the pasta is gone and the pan is full. Top with remaining cheeses and grated Parmesan. Cover with a buttered sheet of aluminum foil and place in the oven for 45 minutes. Remove the foil and cook (or broil) until the top is golden and crispy. Pat yourself on the back for making such an awesome dish.