Archives for category: Breakfast

What do you do if you live in New York City and have out-of-town guests for the weekend? You eat!

So many options, so little time. My top ten varies all the time—and depends of course on the visitor, the season, the budget, the food allergy—but will likely include at least a few of the following:

Russ & Daughters (or Katz’s)
Diner (or Dressler)
Sun-in-Bloom (esp. if a friend is vegan or gluten free)
ABC Kitchen
Blue Ribbon (Sushi or Bakery)
Prune
Di Fara Pizza (or Roberta’s)
Momofuku (pick your fave – Noodle Bar, Ko, Milk Bar, et al.)
Tarallucci e Vino
Al di Là

Other pit-stops might include Gimme Coffee, the Union Square Greenmarket, the Park Slope Food Co-op, or Babycakes Bakery.

This weekend was a flurry of out-of-towners, hailing from Boston, Zurich, Madison, Phoenicia, and Vermont. The weekend began with a late breakfast on Friday at Sun in Bloom in Park Slope. Hey, it’s good to start the weekend off healthy; it was all downhill from there.

You’re looking at gluten-free pancakes and a raw kale wrap with “live” sesame dressing. Both were delicious and way better than either may sound to you.

Friday night I finally got to try Samurai Mama in Williamsburg, a new udon joint brought to you by the owners of Bozu, which is just down the street from Mama on Grand. I had the vegetarian udon with wild edible Japanese plants. It was simple, not too salty, and the udon had an al dente chewiness that I liked. We also had flying fish jerky that was salty and chewy and basically perfect tapas food.

Saturday was a movie and Katz’s. Hugo in 3D to be exact and a post-cinema pastrami on rye. (Not Parisian bistro fare as the movie may have otherwise inspired.) Katz’s, for those of you unfortunate not to know, is one of New York City’s longest-standing Jewish delis, located on the Lower East Side since 1888. I hadn’t had one of their towering sandwiches in ages and I have to say, it was better than Mile End’s, where, you may remember, I bought pastrami on rye for my grandmother’s birthday earlier this year. Well this was worth every penny of the $15 sandwich. Throw in some sour pickles, matzo ball soup, and you’re in heaven. Or I’m in heaven.


After Katz’s I got on the F at 2nd Avenue to find this old New York City subway car sitting in the station. Apparently it’s a refurbished train—from the 1930s I believe—and it will be running on the M line next weekend for the holidays.

Sunday was a whole new day for eating and I had brunch with a bunch of old Cornell friends at Moutarde in Park Slope, across the street from my first apartment in Brooklyn. Later in the afternoon I went to a “gemuetlicher Advent” party at the home of a German couple, friends of mine, also in Park Slope. We ate delicious Stollen—the Christmas cake of Germany—and moon-shaped buttery cookies that to me tasted like Italian wedding cookies but perhaps they’re also German wedding cookies. Or German Advent cookies! For more on Stollen check out my friend Valerie’s post here. I’d love to try this recipe.

Dinner Sunday night was Japanese comfort food at Supercore in Williamsburg, an old favorite. Here’s some dried squid (I call it squid jerky), served with Japanese mayo.

And finally, feasting with the out-of-towners wrapped up this afternoon with my dad and stepmom who took me to lunch at ABC Kitchen. We all shared the roasted kabocha squash with ricotta and apple cider vinegar on toast; beets with homemade yogurt; pizza with mushrooms and a runny egg on top; and veal meatballs with bowtie pasta.

Not bad eh?

I had a craving this week brought on by subliminal messaging. Wednesday morning I was reading the Times‘s Dining section and recall seeing more than one recipe involving cornmeal. I suppose it’s that time of year—for cornbread stuffing, creamy polenta, cornmeal cookies. By 4 pm I was at the greenmarket in Union Square with a serious hankering. I swung by the Cayuga Pure Organics stand and bought a bag of fine cornmeal (not its coarser cousin, polenta—no offense polenta).

My plan was to make jalapeño spoonbread using Martha Rose Shulman’s recipe from her Recipes for Health column. Spoonbread is an airy, soufflé-like cornbread that turns golden brown and rises during baking. I find it’s moister than cornbread, and the leftovers make for one mean breakfast the next morning.

In the end I couldn’t find a jalapeño or an ear of corn (or frozen corn for that matter) so I made some adjustments. I substituted cayenne for the jalapeño, and did away with the corn kernels all together.

By the time I got baking it was nearing 10 pm, and since I decided to beat the egg whites by hand, it was close to midnight when I finally pulled the puffy, fragrant cornmeal soufflé from the oven. No matter, still airy and warm I cut into the spoonbread and helped myself to a midnight snack.

The next morning, I reheated a slice in a skillet with a little butter and served it drizzled with maple syrup for a scrumptious breakfast.

The story doesn’t end there. I tried the recipe again yesterday with my friend Amy while on a lunch break (the perks of being a freelancer and working from home). But the two spoonbreads couldn’t have been more different. Whereas the first night the cornbread browned and puffed up just like it was supposed to, yesterday is remained yellow without browning and never quite reached soufflé heights, and I know why.

You know how when beating egg whites you’re supposed to make sure there’s nothing else in the bowl? No trace of anything that could prevent the whites from reaching their stiff peaks? I goofed and left about 1 tsp of milk in the bowl ergo the egg whites never full aerated. Nonetheless, yesterday’s batch was spoonable and yummy, just with less of the french-toast-like consistency of the first batch. More like regular cornbread, less dense though.

You can probably tell which photo of the finished product is from which experiment.

Jalapeño Spoonbread
Adapted from Martha Rose Shulman, The New York Times

1 c water
2 c milk (whole or 2%)
3/4 tsp salt
1 c (130 g) cornmeal
2 tbsp unsalted butter
3 eggs, whites and yolks separated
Kernels from 1 ear of corn of 3/4 c frozen corn (optional)
2 jalapeños, seeded and minced
1/2 c (2 oz) Gruyère cheese, grated (optional)

1. Preheat the oven to 350 F and butter a 9- or 10-inch cast iron skillet or baking dish.

2. Combine the water, milk, and salt in a saucepan and slowly bring to a boil over medium heat. Slowly add the cornmeal in a stream while whisking constantly. Turn the heat to low and continue to whisk for 8 to 10 minutes, until the mixture is thick. Remove from heat and stir in the butter.

3. One at a time, stir in the egg yolks, then add the cheese and corn kernels, if using, and the jalapeños.

4. In a separate bowl beat the egg whites until they form stiff peaks. Stir in 1/4 of the egg whites into the cornmeal mixture, then gently fold in the remaining 3/4. Transfer the mixture to the baking dish and place in the oven. Bake for thirty minutes until the spoonbread puffs and begins to brown. Serve at once.

Should you achieve soufflé greatness it is a satisfying but fleeting accomplishment. Dig into the spoonbread while still warm and puffy, because it will deflate before you can reach for seconds. Chill leftovers and serve the next day reheated in a skillet with a bit of butter (and maple syrup if you’re so inclined).

Like a lot of folks I know, I recently started drinking green smoothies. Wait, don’t close your browser! To some—I won’t point fingers—that sounds, well, less tasty than something you can chew or grill. I understand.

But I also love greens. Adore even. Ever since I started eating greens that were prepared well. You’ve heard me lament on this site before about all the frozen and canned and non-existent vegetables I ate (or didn’t eat) growing up, so I’m making up for lost time. Kale and chard and spinach and all kinds of lettuces and herbs. A meal isn’t really complete to me without something green on the plate.

I remember being thirteen years old, I had just moved to Middlebury, VT, to live with my dad, and my friend brought me into the Middlebury Natural Foods Co-op. It was like entering a foreign bazaar: the smells, the breads, the vegetables I couldn’t identify, the bulk bins. I’d never seen anything like it in Levittown. Never smelled that co-op smell before.

That same year, the morning after a sleep-over at my friend Arianna’s house in Ripton, her mom gave us breakfast of granola and soy milk. I translated the food in front of me as “cereal and cow’s milk” and poured a big bowl and dove in. After a few bites I remember feeling so full; I either pushed the bowl away or more likely, to be polite, made myself eat the whole thing. This granola stuff was so much more filling than the Corn Pops I ate at home. I wasn’t sure I liked it.

By the time I was sixteen I was a cashier at the food co-op and loving it. All of my  high school jobs in VT in fact were in food services: working in the Middlebury College dining hall, serving ice cream at Baba’s, making sandwiches and serving scones at Harrington’s, and, for a very brief stint, working behind the butcher counter in a grocery store. But by far my favorite was the co-op. I got something like a 20% discount, which went toward Tiger bars, chocolate chip cookies, and occasionally an olive loaf from Bristol Bakery. (These were my gateway foods.)

Well it’s been a fun seventeen years since those early days of choking on granola. I’ve gone through vegetarianism, a brief stint at veganism, and came full swing as a meat-eater again in 2005 while working as a cook at Plantation Farm Camp in California. Now I’m back to eating way less meat, more greens, and starting off each morning with a green smoothie.

I had been doing these off and on for years but nothing ritualistic and with no knowledge of why, except for obvious reasons, these might be good for me. And then recently my friend Melony told me about this book our friend Kyle was really into. Really into. Green for Life by Victoria Boutenko. And since then I’ve found out lots of people I know are also into green smoothies.

The philosophy, in a nutshell, is that the human diet should consist of way more plants, dark leafy greens in particular, than most of us come even close to consuming daily. And that we don’t get the full range of nutrients, fiber, and chlorophyll found in these foods just by chewing (you’d have to chew all day), so that by blending them we do. Juicing is a whole different story and deprives us of most of the good stuff found in the fruits and veggies. Boutenko has some funny and enlightening charts in her book comparing the modern human diet to a chimpanzee’s diet. The thinking is that humans are so close genetically to chimpanzees we could learn a thing or two about what to eat by observing them. And they eat mostly fruits and greens, then a tiny bit of protein, nuts, and fats.

Oh, and good news, greens actually contain a fair share of protein.

But forget philosophy! These smoothies actually taste good, promise. I couldn’t drink them if they didn’t.

Today in Union Square I picked up beautiful organic dandelion greens (wrapped up with the bulb, roots, dirt and all), and gorgeous rainbow chard I couldn’t pass by. Tomorrow morning I’ll do a dandelion-banana-peach smoothie to start the day. Then Amy and I are off to the co-op to try again after last Friday’s frenzy due to the impending hurricane.

Welcome Smoothie for Beginners

Blend well:
1 c chard
1 c spinach
8-10 strawberries, can include stems
1 mango, peeled
1 apple
1 banana
juice of 1 lemon
Yields 2 quarts