Archives for category: Beans

Thank god it’s Saturday. And a sunny one at that. I woke up this morning to warm sun for the first time in a week. Took a stroll up to the greenmarket at McCarren Park around 10 am to find it already abuzz with strollers, Williamsburg hosts shopping for tonight’s dinner party, Polish babcias rifling through bins of potatoes, and lots of folks like myself with dirty old WNYC tote bags overflowing with baguettes and spring garlic. What better way to kick off a weekend in spring?

First was a stop at Bakeri on Wythe Ave. and N. 8th Street for a little pastry to get us going – mini lemon bar ($1) for me and mini chocolate croissants  ($1.50) for Yuji. No coffee for me because they won’t serve decaf espresso. (I respect that – decaf is kind of b.s. Even though it’s all I drink I find the idea of it annoying.) I also picked up one of their long baguettes for later ($2.50) which are just sour enough, crusty on the inside, and really chewy on the inside.

Once at the market, the first stop is usually Red Jacket Orchards for a quart of Strawberry Apple Juice (currently my favorite) ($3), and two apples of a variety whose name I forget ($1.15). Then on to Boddhitree Farm for my first asparagus of the season ($5 for a lot), red leaf lettuce ($2), and a small bunch of oregano ($2). Over at Cayuga Pure Organics (I’m so glad they have a stall at this market location), where they’ve started selling their legumes in bulk bins, so you can get whatever amount you like, I bought a 1/2 pound of the Cannellini ($3). Before leaving I took part in their dry-erase poll, checking “Yes” in response to the question, “Do you like our new self-serve bulk bins?”

At this point tonight’s menu was coming together in my mind: Cannellini sautéed in olive oil with oregano and spring garlic; asparagus (preparation tbd); and now I’d just need some fish. Over to the Pura Vida stand. Yuji wanted the small smelt for frying but the person in front of us bought the whole lot and left us with none. We opted for the skate at $9/lb. At the large produce stand (I can’t remember which farm this is, sorry!) I picked up a big bunch of spring garlic for $2.

Before leaving we swung around to Garden of Eve and (I think) Dutchmill Farm, where we purchased small potted herbs for planting: cilantro, basil, rosemary, chives, and a fennel plant. We have a 2′ x 4′ plot in our yard for gardening and it was now or never. We got home, dug up our little garden spade from last year and got dirty.

Stay tuned for how tonight’s meal shapes up.

I don’t want to crowd this blog with bean posts, but a friend did make a special request for this recipe. And no one should be denied this gem of a dish, it has become one of my favorites. It was a hit at a recent dinner party, and thus the recipe request.

More of a fall or winter meal, truth be told, I still enjoy it year round, usually just changing the protein according to the season.

The first time I made these Cannellini beans was for my birthday a few years ago and I’ve been making them and tweaking the dish ever since. The recipe is adapted from Danny Meyer and Michael Romano’s 1994 Union Square Cafe Cookbook, a book I stole from my sister, or she was getting rid of it, I can’t remember. Thanks Hope! It’s my go-to book for simple, inspired Italian cooking (along with the Silver Spoon).

1 c dried Cannellini beans from Cayuga Pure Organics if possible
Homemade chicken or vegetable stock, approx. 2-4 c
kosher salt
1 celery rib
1 carrot, scrubbed and cut in half lengthwise
1 onion, cut in half and stuck with 2 cloves
3-4 juniper berries (or 1 bay leaf)
about 1/3 c good olive oil
1 tbsp garlic, minced
1 tsp each minced rosemary, sage, and thyme
1/2 c Pecorino or Parmigiano, grated
freshly ground black pepper

Soak the beans for approx. 3 hours, covered, in cold water. (Soaking time will be longer if the beans aren’t as fresh.)

Drain the beans and place in a large saucepan on the stove, covered by the stock or water or a combination of both, to cover by about 3 inches. Add the salt, celery, carrot, onion, and juniper berries and bring to a boil. Turn down to a simmer, cover, and continue to simmer for about one hour, or until the beans are thoroughly cooked and tender. Discard the vegetables, but be sure to reserve 1 1/2 c of the cooking liquid.

In a large skillet, heat the olive and garlic over medium heat, being careful not to burn the garlic. Add the beans to the skillet with 1 1/2 c of the cooking liquid, bring to a boil, then add the herbs and three quarters of the cheese. Continue to boil until the liquid reduces to the consistency of a sauce, about 10 minutes. Don’t worry if some of the beans begin to disintegrate into the sauce. Add additional salt and pepper to taste.

Transfer the beans to a serving dish, adding the remaining cheese and some additional olive oil if you’d like.

I like to serve these with sauteed broccoli rabe, and either a white meaty fish (cod, hake, arctic char), or a braised meat, pork tenderloin, or sausages. If there are leftovers (I recommend doubling the recipe) they make for a great lunch on their own the next day.

A classic. A standby. An economical meal. However you think of it, rice and beans can be a tasty and comforting experience.

Let me start with the rice. In my household, until about two weeks ago, it was white short-grain rice, end of story. Living with a Japanese national, there is just no other kind of rice to be eaten. I’ve been gently reminded on many occasions that to some Japanese people, brown rice is reminiscent of poverty, it’s what you eat only if you have to. White rice is the rice of plenty, of having made it.

Feeling bold, I bought my first batch of brown rice in ages last week. As a concession, I bought short grain, which I prefer anyway to long grain. (Not that Yuji will eat it anyway, long or short.) I like to soak the rice, just covered, on the counter, for a few hours before cooking. Mostly because this shortens the cooking time.

When ready to cook it, if I have homemade stock on hand, I’ll discard the soaking water and add the stock, otherwise I just cook with the soaking liquid. I add a dash of salt, and sometimes, maybe a splash of soy sauce, or a chunk of white onion. (Unless I plan to eat the leftovers for breakfast, then no savory additions.) I always take the rice off the heat in less time than instructed. For brown rice I might simmer it for 30 minutes, turn off the heat, and leave it covered for 20 minutes before serving.

Now about those beans. I am in love. Some of you have been in this relationship for ages already, but I am a relative newcomer to Cayuga Pure Organics. They grow dry beans and grains outside of Ithaca, New York, a place near and dear to my heart. Luckily I can buy these suckers at both the Union Square Greenmarket or the McCarren Park market on Saturdays. I’ve been buying their cornmeal for polenta for a couple years, but only in the last six months ventured to their beans.

And thank goodness I did! I love these black turtle beans. And in a future post I promise to publish the recipe I use for their luscious white Cannellini beans. The black beans are a mere $3 for about a week’s worth of protein. Because the beans are so fresh, you only need to soak them for 2-3 hours, covered with water, on the counter. Whereas with older beans that may have been sitting on a shelf for a year, you would need to soak overnight, which I know intimidates people, because who can plan ahead like that?

Then I discard the soaking liquid, transfer the beans to a large stock pot, and cover with a mixture of homemade stock and water. I throw in a carrot, onion, celery rib, salt, and make a little pouch of spices in cheesecloth: juniper berries, cumin seeds, fennel seeds, and black peppercorns. Bring to a boil, then simmer, partially covered for 45 mins. to an hour.

Then I might like to sautee these in garlic and olive oil on the stove, add some cayenne, maybe something green like spinach or broccoli rabe. Or just eat them over rice with a dollop of plain yogurt.